20 Things You Should Know About Kimono Obi Belts

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by Zoria Petkoska

Like a glamorous necklace, the obi belt can make or break a kimono outfit. It is often a signature, a fashion statement, a focus point for the whole look. In fact, it is the obi that determines the formality of a kimono, so the same kimono worn with different obi can give a totally different impression. But there’s no need to be confused: here are the 20 things you need to know about obi belts, so that you too can play with the infinite possibilities.

There are many ways to tie an obi, and even though it might seem daunting at first, there are also some very simple methods. You might have seen scenes of geishas and nobility having people help them put on their kimonos and tie their obi, but that's not the only option!

The easiest way to tie an obi belt is the bow tie, and we have a video explaining how to do it, which you can check out above.

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Yes! If you use one of the simpler methods, you can easily do it by yourself. It may not be perfect the first time, but a little bit of practice and you’ll be a pro!

For more complex styles, like the bridal kimono for a wedding for example, someone needs to help with the dressing. There are even professional kimono dressers for times like these.

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For women, the obi is tied around the abdomen, whereas for men it is lower, around the waist or above the hips.

As for front vs back, that depends on the knot that you’re using. Originally when the obi was used as a simple belt, they would be tied at the front. Of course, it's easier to see what you're doing that way, so people could tie their own belts. So, how did we switch from front to back? As obi became bigger, more flamboyant, and the knots more elaborate, so it got in the way. It also became more fashionable to do something different by tying the obi to the side or the back. Gradually, the back knot became more popular, eventually becoming the standard in the 20^th century. Today, tying the obi in the front has become a quirky fashion expression, coming full circle to where it started.

There have been infinite obi patterns over the centuries, but there are some that have stayed popular through the ages. As with kimono, floral themes are crowd-pleasers, and they can be worn seasonally, although you’ll see the national flowers chrysanthemum and sakura throughout the year. Auspicious bamboo and pine feature prominently on obi, as well as waves for another natural theme. Animals with positive symbolism like cranes and pheasants are found on many classical obi patterns too. There are also fans, hexagons and other geometric patterns, and even whole scenes from literature and art embroidered on an obi.

Anything can be pattern or design, especially in modern designer obi. Nowadays, obi patterns can be anything you like: anime characters, cats, skeletons, lollipops and so on. It's up to the wearer to choose what they want to showcase, just like wearing t-shirts with your favourite band, cartoon or catchphrase lets your personality show!

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The obi can be seen as a kimono accessory, but it's rarely doing the job by itself. A kimono obi belt usually has its own supporting accessories to help hold it in place and shape it. Very often the kimono is held together by other ties and sashes hidden under the obi, the obi being the last touch.

The most important to know are: Obiage, Obijime, and Obidome.

Obiage (obi bustle) resembles a scarf and can peek out from under the obi if you wish, but is tucked neatly away when worn conservatively. Obijime is a tasselled cord tied on top of the obi. They can help to keep a very wide obi tight, but their use is usally more decorative. Obidome is a decorative clip fastened to the front of an obijime, similar to brooch. In fact you don’t need to buy an obidome especially, you can indeed use a brooch as a replacement. Similarly, why not try using a thin belt as an obijime, and a silk scarf as an obiage, for a modern fashionable look.

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Obi belts are not often washed, after all how often do you wash belts? Obi are not worn against the skin, so they don’t get sweaty. If you do need to wash it, a polyester obi can be easily cleaned in a washing machine; but for a silk obi, you’ll need to take it to a specialized kimono cleaner. Do make sure to store the obi out of direct sunlight to protect the colors.

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The most elaborate obi belts can actually be more expensive than a kimono traditionally, because the entire 13 feet / 4 meter length is made of hand-woven silk! But whatever your price range you can find something great. At Japan Objects Store you can find obi belts starting from $29.99.

Yes you can! Hanhaba obi and heko obi are more casual so they are perfect for both daily casual yukata or kimono. Fukuro obi, on the other hand, are often very fancy, so they are not usually worn with the more casual yukata. To put it in Western fashion terms, it would be like wearing gorgeous ball gown accessories with a t-shirt and shorts. But it’s still a style choice you can make if you want to!

If you’re not sure about the distinction between kimono and yukata, check out Yukata vs Kimono: What’s the Difference?

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That’s completely up to you! Matching the obi to one aspect of your outfit – your shoes, your hair accessories, your jewelry, or one of the colors on your kimono perhaps – is a style choice that you can make, but you certainly don’t have to! So think of it as a personal expression, and not a rule.

Yes you can! Wider belts look good with kimono. There are some designers who make belts especially for kimono. You can also use a long scarf as an obi. There is definitely room for experimentation and creativity in modern kimono wearing. You can find more inspiration from popular kimono fashion influencers in How to Wear Japanese Kimono like a Pro!

Yes of course! Bear in mind that the obi will hide your body line and make it straighter, less curvy.

Yes, the standard obi belt for men is called kaku obi and is longer and narrower than women’s obi. Men also wear the more casual heko obi. Men's obi belts are usually simple and subdued in style, just like men's kimono and yukata. Dark colors like black, navy or brown are preferred, with very plain repetitive patterns.

Yes, children’s obi belts are also simple smaller versions of heko obi: small, narrow, with light colours and uncomplicated patterns. Young children often wear simple soft scarf-like obi or an easy clip-on obi. Anything to keep the dressing up quick and easy!

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Women might feel the obi is a bit tight at first, especially if they’re wearing a formal style kimono such as furisode, or a wedding kimono. But you can always loosen it if it's too tight for you. Men generally find them very comfortable, as they are narrower and tied lower, supporting the belly.

Yes, you can mix and match kimono and obi, and wear them separately too.

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The bride will normally wear a very elaborate obi, both in its design and its knot. Guests might wear pretty obi for the occasion, but not so elaborate as to upstage the bride!

Immediate family members would normally wear black obi with black obijime and obiage. The tying style is Nagoya obi style. However, nowadays it’s no longer common to wear kimono to funerals if you’re not immediate family of the deceased.

Whether you want to emulate a classic kimono look, a casual summer yukata outfit, or going the vintage experimental route, the obi is crucial. An obi belt can also be used as an ornament in the house, gracing walls like a tapestry, or displayed on shelves. It is a versatile item and one of the most durable kimono accessories, so many artisans are also recycling old belts into bags and jewellery. The obi lives on!