What are Kimono Jackets? 19 Things You Need to Know

Kimono jackets come in several forms, from luxurious haori, which have been worn in Japan for centuries, to stylish hanten that keep the bones warm in chillier winter months. Jackets also add a touch of glamour or a splash of color to traditional Japanese attire and are the best way to make your outfit look more authentic.

If you want to learn more about these fascinating garments, and also find out how to choose one that is right for you, then take a look at our comprehensive guide to Japanese kimono jackets.

SHOP THE LOOK | Vintage Kimono Jacket

SHOP THE LOOK | Haori Kimono Jacket

There are three main kinds of kimono jacket: hanten, haori and happi.

Whilst these days happi are also worn by women during ceremonial events, haori and hanten remain more popular among Japanese women.

A haori is a loose-fitting traditional jacket – it is derived from the word haoru, meaning to put on – and is not dissimilar to Western cardigan. The haori is used to protect against the cold, for ceremonial purposes or simply as a stylish fashion accessory.

Women’s haori, especially when crafted from silk, feature much more resplendent color patterns than those of their male counterparts. Women’s cotton haori are becoming increasingly popular, and pair well with modern clothing. For hanten, women’s and men’s are quite interchangeable, though women are more likely to find bolder colors to fit their size.

Regarding kimono jackets for men, the main choice is between hanten, haori and happi.

A hanten is a short winter coat, typically worn when the cold descends upon Japan. With cotton padding and a tailored collar, it’s suitable for every-day wear though also works well on formal occasions. This men’s kimono jacket is the perfect replacement for a cardigan or light overcoat, irrespective of what you’re wearing underneath.

A happi is a lightweight jacket with baggy sleeves most commonly seen during festivals. Happi are usually plain colored – occasionally emblazoned with kanji or traditional motifs – and pair well with kimono and other Japanese garments.

Haori by Tatsumi Shimura, 1980s

Each style of jacket has its own unique backstory:

Hanten first became popular during the late-Edo period (1603–1868). Unlike many other garments, the wearing of hanten was not restricted by social class, so they were used by people in all segments of Japan’s hierarchical society and for a variety of occasions. Thanks to its lightweight design, a hanten provided both warmth and breathability, making it a very utilitarian article of clothing.

Men's Haori Kimono Jacket, 20th Century, the Met Museum

Haori, however, are believed to have originated during the bellicose Sengoku era (1467-1615), when Japan’s rival states where in a near-constant period of war. Perhaps aptly then, haori were worn by warriors over their battle armor to shield them from the cold and perhaps indicate their allegiance before becoming popularized among the upper classes. Geisha began wearing haori as fashion accoutrements in the days of Edo. They were then adopted by samurai families, who would wear haori stitched with their family crests, particularly on religious occasions.

© Creative Commons, Happi

Happi originated during the Edo period and were worn primarily by men of the both the wealthy and working classes, from samurai to house servants, laborers to firefighters. These days many religious groups and societies will where happy during special celebrations to indicate which shrine they belong to – which is why they have become a little more unisex over time.

Sewing Kurume Cotton

Authentic kimono jackets are handmade in Japan, the best of which are made from silk or Kurume Kasuri, a distinctive Japanese cotton fabric that has long been an integral part of the nation’s handicraft legacy. Today this unique woven textile is redefining the future of Japanese fashion, though it has a 200-year history in the eponymous Kurume City where the local river basin terrain is ideal for cultivating cotton.

Sewing Kurume Cotton

The intricate weaving techniques, bold hues, and geometric patterns of Kurume cotton speak to the Japanese concept of wabi-sabi, often summed up as “the beauty of imperfection”. In the era of mass production, a considerable proportion of Kurume cotton products are still crafted by hand.

When comparing Kurume Kasuri or 100-percent silk to faux-silk or synthetic cotton alternatives, the difference is instantly identifiable.

SHOP THE LOOK | Hanten Kimono Jacket

The cut of a haori is similar to a hanten – both are hip-length and worn over the kimono – but there are differences. The most apparent of these is that a hanten is thickly padded and therefore favored in winter, whereas a haori is a thinner, lighter jacket better suited to the summer months.

SHOP THE LOOK | Vintage Kimono Jacket

Haori are also viewed as quite formal – the degree of formality, however, is dependent on the fabric of choice and how it was constructed. Traditionally, the authorities frowned upon overt displays of wealth, so the inner linings, which are not on show, may bear more extravagant patterning.

SHOP THE LOOK | Vintage Kimono Jacket

Haori tend to be made from silk, are designed in coordination with a pairing kimono, and may have a decorative style on the inner lining. Happi, however, likely have a large kanji on the center of the back, geometric bordering along the hem and kanji characters on the collar to denoted which organization the happi was created for.

The difference between vintage and modern kimono jackets is most apparent in haori.

Vintage haori are made from silk and are most evocative of the original Sengoku-era style. Though best paired with traditional Japanese clothing, they are wearable pieces of art and a unique addition to most wardrobes.

Modern haori jackets are all about comfort. The best modern haori jackets available are made from Kurume Kasuri, and come in a variety of lengths and patterns to ensure they work well with 21^st century clothing.

SHOP THE LOOK | Hanten Kimono Jacket

As we’ve outlined, winter is the season for hanten, summer the season for haori. But you can mix these around, depending on the weather and what feels most appropriate in your current environment.

Happi are less dictated by season than occasion. If you’re in Japan during a traditional festival, such as Obon (summer festival of the dead), Tokyo’s Kanda Masturi (celebrated on odd-numbered years and praying for prosperity of the people), or the bizarre Kanamara Matsuri (festival of the “steel phallus”), then wearing a happi is a great way to immerse yourself in the celebrations.

SHOP THE LOOK | Vintage Kimono Jacket

Kimono jackets can be bought in souvenir stores across the country, though often these are not of a particularly high quality. Craft shops across the country that specialize in silk and Japanese cotton will often have more authentic handmade version for sale.

And of course, you can check out our own Japan Objects Store, where we have a great selection of vintage silk haori jackets. The men’s kimono jackets have soothing exterior colors with vibrant imagery enlivening the inner lining. The women’s kimono jackets are decidedly more elaborate, running the gamut of designs from pink, forested backgrounds to autumn-inspired designs.

We also have padded Kurume cotton hanten jackets in a range of color tones for men and women, as well as stylish cotton haori for women.

We have mentioned it here already, but it’s worth reemphasizing: the primary thing to look out for when purchasing a kimono jacket is quality of the textiles used. Kimono jackets produced using 100-percent silk or Kurume Kasuri are investments, but worthwhile ones if you are able to look after them properly. For those who care about authenticity, handmade hanten, haori and happi created with natural dyes will get you the best bang for your buck.