Inden-ya: Iconic Japanese Wallets You Will Love
SHOP THE LOOK | Indenya Leather Wallet
by Laura Pollacco
Leather is a material that humans have been working with since the early ages of our existence. Some believe that we have been working with leather as far back as 140,000 to 170,000 years ago. Leather was a byproduct of hunting for food with the hide of the animal then used as protection from the elements, whether that be as a tent, as clothing, or as footwear. Though it may not date back quite as far as this, one Japanese company has been working with the material for quite some time and is considered one of the oldest companies in the world to date.
1. What is Inden-ya?
Inden-ya (印傳屋) is a company that crafts exquisite leather goods using techniques and skills that have been handed down throughout the centuries. The name inden comes from the name given to the decorative leathers that were traded from India (called Indo by the Japanese) during the 17th century. It could also perhaps be the combination of Indo denrai meaning originating from India. The ya in Inden-ya means shop in Japanese, so it literally translates to shop of Indian-originating leather.
SHOP THE LOOK | Lacquered Leather Wallet
Japanese inden leather is made from deerskin, making it lightweight, flexible, and durable. It is highly decorated with intricate designs which utilizes a closely guarded lacquering technique. Today, the company employs their considerable skills to craft some of the most popular Japanese wallets available, among many other luxurious leather goods such as bags, and business card holders.
2. How did Inden-ya Begin?
Indenya's technique, passed down through generations
Inden-ya has a uniquely long history of over 400 years. It was founded in 1582 by Uehara Yushichi who came from a family of weapon armorers who worked for the castle of Uehara in Suwa, Nagano Prefecture. After the rulers of the castle were ousted in battle, Yuichi Uehara moved to Kofu Castle, in Yamanashi Prefecture, where he founded his Indenya company.
Made from deerskin and lacquer
It was here that he is believed to have developed a new technique for applying urushi lacquer (Japanese lacquer) to the deer leather with the final product going on to be known as koshu inden. Of course, there were other practitioners of inden at that time, the material being very popular with samurai for their armor as the leather was light and durable, but it was also a time of merchant culture, and within towns many competed against one another through their style. At this time jiwari inden or matsubi inden styles, where the lacquer was cracked, were popular.
3. How has Inden-ya Survived for so Long?
Inden workshop in the castle town of Kofu
According to a Kofu shopping guide published in 1854, there were three inden craftsmen working around Kofu, including the one founded by Yuishichi. Today, only Yuishichi’s legacy lives on. This is thought to be down to the fact that the technique was carefully handed down through the family orally, having been kept a secret from all others. Founder Uehara Yushichi only passed it onto one of his children, and insisted they take his name to become president of the company. This tradition lives on with the current president being Yushichi Uehara XIII.
Certified Traditional Kofu Inden Craftsmanship
During the Meiji Period (1868-1912) their koshu inden products won awards at the Domestic Industrial Exhibition, which elevated its status and drew more attention to the technique. In 1987 the company was recognized as a traditional craft by the Minister of Economy, Trade, and Industry.
SHOP THE LOOK | Bifold Lacquered Leather Wallet
Today, Inden-ya is still going strong, dominating the field of Japanese wallets, with its factory still based in Yamanashi and with stores across Japan. Whilst staying true to traditions, the company constantly seeks to innovate and discover new ways to share its products with the world. In 2017, Inden-ya collaborated with British brand Asprey, which has a Royal Warrant meaning their goods have regularly been supplied to the royal family.
4. What are Inden-ya Products?
SHOP THE LOOK | Leather Card Holder
Inden-ya makes a variety of products, the majority of which are bags or wallets and purses such as this white fuji lacquered leather wallet. Japan is a country which still values the use of business cards, so meishi-ire (business card holders) are popular as well. For those who do not use business cards as much anymore, they make perfect credit card holders as well. The craftsmanship that goes into an Inden-ya product is unparalleled, making them unique.
5. How are Inden-ya Products Made?
Fusube: The Ancient Smoke Craft of Inden
Inden is made up of two main components - deerskin and lacquer. First the deerskin is filed and smoothed in order to prepare the surface for the lacquer, then the skins are dyed. Each deer skin will react differently to the dye, but they are often dyed black, wine red, brown, indigo, and dark red. Then they are flattened and any remaining hairs are pulled out. The skin is then painstakingly cut to the right size in a way that mitigates waste as much as possible.
The Urushi-zuke Process
There are three ways to then apply the pattern to the skin. The most common way associated with Inden-ya is through lacquer, where a hand made stencil is placed atop the skin and the lacquer is carefully applied layer by layer until the desired results are achieved. This is known as the urushi-zuke method.
Sarasa: Vibrant Patterns from India
Another method is called fusube whereby the pattern is smoked onto the skin. This is one of the most skilled methods, where the dyed deerskin is tied to a barrel and spun over smoke from burning straw. Depending on the pattern, string is tied or glued over the skin to form the pattern as it resists the fumigation from the smoke. This technique is ancient, dating back to the Nara Period (710-794) and is only practiced by a small handful of skilled artisans.
Sarasa is the third method, with the name originating from the Indo-Indian chintz pattern. The pattern is created when patterns are layered on top of one another, each with their own color. It takes extreme patience and skill to line them up correctly to get a prefect final result.
6. How to Take Care of an Inden-ya Japanese Wallet?
SHOP THE LOOK | Bifold Lacquered Leather Wallet
As with any high quality product, especially those made from natural materials, care is required in order to keep the quality for as long as possible. Leather is a durable fabric, but it isn’t impervious to the elements, so you must do your best to store it away from the sunlight which can bleach the color and crack the leather. Keeping it dry is also important, as water stains on leather can be permanent, if it does get wet do not rub it at is can smudge the dye, instead dab it with a cloth and let it dry naturally in a shady area.
Takane: The Sacred Beauty of Mount Fuji
Be gentle with your Inden-ya wallet to ensure you don’t overly bend or stretch the leather as it will not go back to its original shape after undergoing excessive warping. Do not use benzine, cleaner, or wax to remove any dirt or to add shine.
7. How Much do Inden-ya Products Cost?
SHOP THE LOOK | Lacquered Leather Wallet
You can buy a selection of Inden-ya products at the Japan Objects Store, starting at around $70.
These items are made with over 400 years of knowledge and experience and are more than simply the product, but a testament to the rich craftsmanship of Japan’s textile history. Owning one means owning a piece of history and being a part of a tradition that started centuries ago.
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